How to apply Pancake makeup

Pancake makeup is a thick, heavy, oil and wax-based foundation that provides excellent coverage. It actually offers much higher coverage than regular cream makeup, so it's often only used for stage performances by those appearing on stage or screen, such as models and actors.

The purpose of pancake makeup is to provide a flawless and well-defined face that can be seen from a distance, but because it also creates a waterproof layer, it can also be used for people with very oily skin, and it won't be affected by sweat. Initially, this type of makeup can be difficult to use, but the secret to perfect coverage is to use the right amount of water and apply it correctly.

Sequence 1: Applying the Correct Technique

Step 1: Wet your sponge

Pancake makeup needs to be combined with water and should be applied with a thick sponge. The great thing about pancake makeup is that you can control your coverage by adding more or less water (less water means thinner makeup and thicker coverage).

For regular coverage, soak your sponge with water and then squeeze out the excess so that the sponge is damp. For lighter coverage, soak the sponge and then gently squeeze it so it's not dripping wet.

While using more water will help you thin out the coverage, using too much water can also lead to an uneven and streaky foundation. Because pancake makeup can provide such thick coverage, you can actually apply a shade two or three colors lighter than your skin tone.

Step 2: Rub the sponge into the makeup pan

Apply gentle pressure as you rub to cover one side of the sponge with makeup. For lighter coverage, don't apply any additional pressure: the weight from the water will press the sponge into the makeup enough to pick up an appropriate amount.

Step 3: Apply the pancake makeup to your face

With the amount of makeup you have on the sponge, begin to apply it to your face. Blend it evenly as many times as possible before returning to apply more. When it runs out, rub the sponge into the makeup pan again and continue patting it onto your face.

Apply pancake makeup to your face, cheeks, nose, forehead, and even eyelids. If you are using thick coverage in a shade significantly different from your natural skin tone, you should also cover your entire neck down to your ears.

For lighter coverage, use light, quick strokes to apply a layer of pancake makeup. When applying foundation, be careful not to apply too much or too little. Also, it's best to use high-quality products, as you will get better color.

Step 4: Blend the makeup layers

Once you have applied makeup to your entire face, squeeze out any excess water from the sponge and turn it to a clean side to start blending. Apply gentle pressure to work the makeup into your skin. Don't forget the areas between your eyes and the corners of your nose, mouth, and eyes. When blending, focus on making the coverage even and eliminating streaks.

Step 5: Wait for the makeup to dry

Once you have blended, let the makeup dry a bit. If you want lighter coverage, use a towel or tissue to blot your face while your skin is still damp to absorb water and excess makeup.

Step 6: Powder your face

Using a brush, powder puff, or clean sponge, apply a thin layer of setting, finishing, or compact powder. Remove any excess powder and smooth out the finished makeup by gently patting it onto your face with a powder puff or makeup sponge. Note that the pancake makeup should be completely dry before applying powder.

Sequence 2: Using pancake makeup for contouring

Step 1: Contouring

Contouring is a way of applying darker and lighter makeup to different areas of your face to highlight and diminish certain features. For example, you can use:

Darker makeup under your cheekbones to make your face appear longer and thinner. Lighter makeup on your cheekbones to make them stand out. Darker makeup on your jawline to make your face look more defined. Both types of makeup to make your nose appear slimmer. To make your eyes stand out more.

Step 2: Choose your makeup style

The process for using pancake makeup for contouring is the same as for regular foundation, except you use multiple colors to highlight and contour different features. You'll need regular pancake makeup (that matches your skin tone), pancake makeup for highlighting, and darker pancake makeup for contouring.

When choosing your foundation, make sure the undertone matches your skin tone. For example, if you have pink undertones and use a neutral foundation, it will oxidize and appear yellow on your skin.

For contouring, choose a shade a few shades darker than your regular pancake makeup. For highlighting, choose a pancake makeup that is a few shades lighter than your regular pancake makeup. If you want the pancake makeup to cover red or dark spots, choose one with a green tint.

Step 3: Cleanse and moisturize your face

Wash your face with a gentle cleanser to remove oil, sweat, and dirt. Pat your face dry and apply an oil-free moisturizer or toner. Allow the moisturizer to absorb for about five minutes. Pancake makeup will not adhere properly to your skin if there is water, oil, dirt, or sweat on your face, which is why you must start with clean, oil-free skin.

Step 4: Contour to highlight your cheekbones

If you want to make your face appear more defined and your cheekbones more prominent, you can contour your cheekbones to achieve this. Remember that when you contour with pancake makeup, you'll have to work a little faster than with regular makeup, because you'll have to blend everything once you've applied the makeup.

Using a thin, damp makeup sponge, apply a thin line of highlighting pancake makeup above your cheekbones, from the middle of your cheek to the end of your eyebrow. A darker line of pancake makeup, the width of a finger, below your cheekbones, from your ear towards the corner of your mouth. Do not extend past your eyes. Don't forget to use a separate sponge for each color.

Step 5: Create a clear jawline contour

This can help make your jawline more prominent and help conceal excess fat under your chin. With darker pancake makeup and a sponge, apply the makeup along your jawline and the area just under your chin. On both sides of your face:

Start from your ear and follow your jawline to your chin. To make your chin appear more defined, apply makeup gently to the chin area so you don't follow the curve of your chin. To conceal excess fat under your chin, use pancake makeup to cover the lower jawline area under your chin.

Step 6: Make your nose appear slimmer

Apply a line of highlighting pancake makeup down the bridge of your nose, from between your eyebrows to the tip of your nose. With darker pancake makeup, draw a vertical line down both sides of your nose, from the inner corner of your eyebrows all the way to the tip of your nose. At the tip of your nose, blend the makeup gently inwards.

Step 7: Clearly define your forehead

With the darker shade, draw a thin line across your forehead, just below your hairline. Make the line slightly thicker in the area above the natural curve of your eyebrows.

Step 8: Highlight other areas

You can make other areas stand out by applying a small amount of highlighter. This includes dabbing a circle of highlighter in the center of your chin, drawing a small "V" shape in the center of your eyebrows, and dabbing a bit of highlighter on your Cupid's bow (the center top of your upper lip). To make your eyes pop, apply a crescent-shaped line of highlighter under each eye.

Step 9: Use regular pancake makeup to blend

Dampen a regular (not thin) makeup sponge and use it to apply your regular pancake makeup to the remaining areas of your face that you haven't highlighted or contoured.

When you're finished, flip the sponge over and immediately begin blending the makeup so there are no harsh lines, uneven spots, or sudden changes in color.

Step 10: Apply setting powder

Once you've blended the three colors together, let the pancake makeup dry and then apply a finishing, contouring, or setting powder over it. Use a brush or sponge to blend it evenly.

Author: Frankie Sanderson. Translator and designer: Nguyen Ha.

Source: Wikihow. Copyright: Kallos Vietnam.

About the author Frankie Sanderson

This article was co-authored by Frankie Sanderson. Franklin (Frankie) Sanderson is a Stylist and Makeup Artist and the Founder of TheStudeo, a hair styling business based in Washington D.C. specializing in hair styling, makeup, and personal image consulting services.

He specializes in hair extensions, chemical services such as highlights, Balayage, Japanese hair straightening, keratin treatments, and custom design cuts. He holds a BFA in Fashion Design from Virginia Commonwealth University and has trained at L'Oreal Soho Academy, TIGI, Vidal Sassoon, Redken, and Wella. His clients include Nicole Kidman, Lindsay Lohan, Rachel McAdams, Tina Fey, Jane Lynch, and Alicia Keys.